Remember when: The Wonder City

West Memphis landmark eatery enjoyed decades of success

By JANE RUSSELL

A Times Staff Feature W onder City Cafeteria, a beloved establishment in West Memphis, is remembered fondly for its delicious home-cooked meals and warm atmosphere. Originally opened in 1937 by John Carr, the restaurant quickly became a staple in the community.

The restaurant moved to the Broadway Building, at the corner of Missouri Street and Broadway, in 1940, where it continued to attract customers with its freshly prepared dishes made by local cooks. The restaurant was purchased by Bill Abernathy in 1960. The cozy spot by then was a cafeteria and was a community favorite known for its finger-lickin’ fried chicken and mile high homemade meringue pies. Anne Abernathy, Bill’s wife originally made the homemade rolls and pies. Head cook, Mrs. Verdeen Booker came on board at the tender age of 18, taking over for her sister who had cooked at the restaurant a number of years before she became sick.

Over the years the restaurant was a treasure trove of comfort food.

At Mother’s encouragement, Dad started cooking barbecue when he built a pit in the kitchen. People would come from downtown Memphis for lunch and fresh barbecue. The cafeteria was even written up in Memphis Magazine,” daughter Deborah Abernathy said. “Grannie greeted everyone with ‘hello honey’ and little Bill was a long time feature at the cafe.”

And let’s not forget about those cherished Sunday brunches where families and friends gathered for a postchurch lunch that was nothing short of delightful.

Sadly, the doors of Wonder City Cafeteria closed for the last time in the mid 1990’s, leaving a void in the community that has yet to be filled. Even with new restaurants like Chck-Fil-A and the new Venue opening in Marion, locals still find themselves pinning for the simple pleasures of a good home cooked meal like the Old Wonder City served up with love. The nostalgia for this iconic restaurant speaks volumes about the impact it had on the local community, proving that sometimes all you really need is a warm plate of deliciousness to make a lasting mark on a town. Here’s to you, Wonder City- you’ll always have a special place in our hungry hearts. Just saying.

The Wonder City Restaurant back in its heyday. The eatery eventually became the Wonder City Cafeteria and is now a retail space as The Shops of Wonder City.

Photo courtesy of the City of West Memphis